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You are here: Home / Travel / Singapore / Singapore’s fascinating mix of religions, cultures and rituals

Singapore’s fascinating mix of religions, cultures and rituals

March 8, 2010

Singapore is a multi cultural city.


77% is Chinese, 14% Malayan, 8% Indian en 1% Eurasian. Talking about the locals aka residents here.

Indian couple. In the background muslims and chinese singaporeans.



Indian family with in the background again Chinese Singaporeans.

Indian family strolling through town.

Chinese Singaporeans and chinese Chinese at a calligraphy workshop.

Young singaporeans queueing for one of the hotspots on a saturday night.

Singaporean scene at a crepes-tasting.

Frits with four muslima’s.








There are also long term non-residents: 19%.


Partly those are expats: often high educated, high income caucasians, like Frits.
The rest of them are migrant workers. Cheap labourers, either for construction work (men) or as nanny’s and cleaning ladies (women). The men often come from Bangladesh or India, the women from the Philippines or Indonesia.

Due to all those ethnicities, there are also that many religions, churches, temples and rituals in the city. Very interesting.

Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Hinduism, Shiks, Catholics, Jews, you name it, Singapore has it;-).

Last week I walked through Geylang for five hours.

At night a sort of red light district, during the day a very authentic neighborhood with a chinese-malay character. Streets dotted with beautiful old houses and lots of temples. A very interesting combination.

Around lunch time, the only time the area gave something away of it’s nightly activities.

In this neighborhood the polished image of Singapore get’s nuanced a bit. Yes, in our neighborhood, the CBD, you can eat from the pavement. Geylang looks a bit more like the rest of Asia;-).

Typical traditional style. The so-called shophouses.
The concept of the shophouses is as follows: the streets are lined with narrow houses. Shop downstairs, living area upstairs. On the street side is a gallery in front of the shops: a 5-foot gallery for protection against sun and rain. The houses are narrow, but are often very deep and have several floors. You can see that very well on this picture.
Being in Singapore, the contemporary HDB flats are never far away. So they are also built next to traditional shophouses, as we can see on the following picture. HDB flats are often painted in bright colors, like turquoise here.

Some shophouses are in quite good shape, renovated and well-maintained, while in others there is a lot of neglect and decay to be seen. What a shame!

Certain streets and houses were even remarkable when they were built, in the first half of the 20th century. Beautiful stucco, cornices and tiles. Birds, lions, dragons, snakes, fish, flowers…and…a dutch milkmaid with a cow and a bull!!!

This is one of the most beautiful examples of this period and architecture. Very richly decorated and ornamented. Whole stories are told here. Over the top? Maybe. But I love it! The two Sikh guards seem to be very unusual, so I read.

He reminds me somehow of Tomson and Thomson from TinTin;-).

With temples everywhere:

From this giant chinese temple, you can see the indian temple next door.

This indian temple is quite atypical, because most others are extemely colorful. This one, on the other hand, is very, very modest.

In this neighborhood you also find lots of shops, specialized in ceremonial funeral items. Josspaper, items to be burned at ancestor rituals.

For the Chinese, the afterlife is as important as the here and now.
That’s why funerals and remembrance days are surrounded with rituals and ceremonies.
In the hereafter the deceased needs to be able to have the same quality of life as when he or she was still alive. So the living take care that their deceased relative has everything he/she needs. Golfclubs, clothes, food, something to drink, a Gucci bag, a cellphone and lots of money. Mayve even a car, a house and servants!

All of this can be bought in these shops. Only…made out of paper…often on scale. Although the items are ‘just’ paper objects, still a serious paper purchase could be over a thousand dollars!

Traditional chinese attire from paper.





“I would like a nice polo shirt for my dead husband.”

“And I would like some sexy underwear and slippers for my deceased wife”.





Jewelry, reading glasses, make up.




A Burberry bag…

Cigarettes and hard liquor.

Bike or scooter anyone?

Golf clubs.

I bought ‘Heineken’.

And a Mah Jongg game;-)







At these ceremonies there is a lot of food, next to the paper items. The paper stuff is burned, while the food is eaten, at the end.



In this temple preparations were going on for a big ceremony the next day.

Four women were cleaning, polishing and dressing up this deity.

The men placed temporary altars and decorated them with red cloth.

Bread in the shape of a hand with two folded fingers.

Oven for burning of offerings.


Visiting a chinese temple, you will find people praying and burning incense.

Monks chanting, in long meditative sessions.

Indian temple priests, always well fed due to their high status, several times a day perform ritual sessions with music, singing and worshiping some of the many gods.

Chinese believers use wooden sticks, that they shake, throw, pick and bring to a fortune teller.

It works like this: at the temple you take a wooden box filled with wooden, numbered sticks. The case is open on one side. You kneel, pray and bend forward, while meanwhile the tube shakes up and down, rattles, again and again untill finally one of them falls out.

You write down the number on the stick, and go to one of many fortune-tellers who work in minsicule kiosks in or near the church. These fortune tellers have a thick book in front of him. You give them the number of the stick that fell out and your question or problem. For example: “I’m sick and one doctor says I have to have an operation, but the other me says I should just not do that, etc. The number on my stick was 43” The fortune teller goes through the book with that information. And eventually comes with his advice or answer.
Reminds me of Tarot card reading.

Feng Shui is highly valued in Singapore, and taken into account, for example in the construction and decoration of buildings.

The other day, Frits was strolling through Singapore and passed by a march of Indian people with meat hooks in their body and pierced tongues and cheeks, walking for miles through town like this in the burning heat. Amazing!

This ceremony turned out to be Thaipusam.
Bizarre, yes, but also great.

All these beliefs and rituals are just wonderful, surprising, new, interesting, colorful … for me, at least, as a self-declared western amateur urban anthropologist;-)

I feel very fortunate that I can see and experience all this (well, as a spectator that is … ;-))


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Comments

  1. Anonymous says

    March 8, 2010 at 10:09 pm

    Hoi Anja & Frits, mooi foto’s en zo te zien amuseer je jezelf prima in deze omgeving 🙂 Leuk om zo nu en dan even een beeld mee te krijgen!

    Groetjes, Axel & Mignon

    Reply
  2. Anonymous says

    March 8, 2010 at 10:18 pm

    Weer een mijlpaal im mijn digitale bestaan: een reactie op een blog!
    Prachtige foto’s, en voor de lezer/kijker leuk behapbaar gemaakt door de thematische aanpak.
    Singapore is een stuk gevarieerder dan m’n indruk tot nu toe was.
    Hans S.

    Reply
  3. Anonymous says

    March 9, 2010 at 3:42 am

    Heioekoe (al kan ik het niet juist schrijven!) is mijn favoriet. mooie foto’s weer. de shophouses zijn prachtig. vroeger had je iets vergelijkbaars op de Royal Mile in Edinburgh (en ongetwijfeld ook in andere steden): beneden winkel met gallerij/gaanderij en er boven wonen, tegenwoordig is er nog 1 (gereconstrueerd en niet zo kleurig)
    Wim

    Reply

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Hello, my name is Anja.

Since 2009 I divide my time between Singapore and the Netherlands, while traveling Asia in the meantime.

Special love for photography, quirky stuff, street art and pets. Learn more about me and my blog or subscribe!

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